Tibby The Corgi

Finding A Responsible Breeder - Part 4

Tibby TibblesComment

Hey guys! I'm back with a Part 4 about responsible breeding that will hopefully answer some of the nitty gritty questions that people have asked me over and over again. 

This is meant to be a resource for those of you who are already in the process of trying to find a reputable breeder for corgis, and your trying to determine if the breeder you have found is a good breeder. If you're not that far along in the process, I highly recommend you read Part 1Part 2, and Part 3Part 3 contains resources to begin your search for a breeder in US and Canada.

I've also covered a lot of important questions to ask them in Part 2. Check it out for a refresher! This Part 4 is a more detailed answer of some of the answers I have already covered in Part 2. And some new stuff, that is nitty gurrritty!

Let's get to it, shall we? 

By now, you have started contacting breeders. Here's some questions that you should ask them to determine if they are a responsible breeder or not.

1. Ask Them for Reports on Dam and Sire's Eyes, Hips and vonWillebrands Disease Certificates.

Pembroke Welsh Corgis are prone to certain eye problems like Cataracts and Progressive Retinol Atrophy. The breeder should be able to provide you with a report for both the Mother and Father of the litter.

Pembroke Welsh Corgis are also prone to hip related problems because of their stumpy frame. They are at risk for Hip Dysplasia. The hips are evaluated by the OFA after they are 24 months old. The Mother and Father of the litter should have certification showing their hips are Fair, Good or Excellent. However, please note that this is not a guarantee that the puppy will not develop hip dysplasia in the future. Hip dysplasia is caused by both environmental (like being obese) and genetic factors. 

vonWillebrands is a blood clotting disease. A simple genetic test can determine if the Sire and Dam are carriers, clear or affected. 


2. Ask Them For The Pedigree of Their Litter

Reputable breeders should have a chart showing the documented sires and dams of the litter going back at least 4 generations. This way, you can see that the pedigree of all the previous corgis. Just from my observation, I've noticed that most good breeders tend to breed dogs with a champion pedigree. Usually, at least one of the parents have some sort of title. Responsible breeders also diversify their dog's gene pools by breeding their dogs with other breeders. That means the prefix before their name is different. 

For a good example - take a look at this pedigree chart on this online pedigree database. 

If you take a look at this corgi, you can see the sire/dam and grand-sire/grand-dams are from different breeders, rather than just solely this one breeder. 


3. These Things Should Come Standard

Reputable breeders will provide you with a puppy that comes microchipped, registered with the governing body (for US, AKC, for Canada - CKC), with their first set of vaccinations, and dewormed. Good breeders will insist that they 

4. Price Is Not An Indication of Quality

As with most things in life, price is not necessarily a good indication of quality. Since Corgis have become so popular, there are many people posing as breeders in order to make a quick buck. 

There are "breeders" that will charge you an exorbitant amount for their corgis (I had a follower contact me and ask me if 8000 for a corgi was a reasonable amount - no definitely not!). Some "breeders" will charge you a very low amount, because with them there is no guarantee of quality, and in all likelihood, you will never hear from them again. It will be a lot cheaper up front - but trust me, you will end up paying for it (in unexpected vet fees, preventable genetic diseases etc).

The breeder you want to find is one that charges a reasonable amount for their corgis. Speaking from my experience, the last time I was looking for a puppy (in 2014 so keep that in mind, the reputable breeders I was speaking to were charging between 1500-2500 for a puppy (keep in mind that is just my experience and I'm trying to give you an estimate to work off of! This is also in Canada...different countries might be different rates :)). This alway included first shots, microchipping, registration, and deworming.

5. There Is Always A Spaying/Neutering Contract

If you are buying a companion puppy, the breeder makes you sign a contract to make sure you spay and neuter your puppy before 1 year of age. I'm pretty sure this is standard for all responsible breeders. You usually have to send in some sort of proof to the breeder after the procedure is done. 


I'm hoping this article helps you in your search for your fur-ever corgi! Ultimately, the decision and choice is up to you. Finding the perfect dog for you can be a long, tedious, frustrating journey. But good things come to those who wait. And it'll be worth it in the end.

XOXO- Tibby's Mom






Tibby's Doggo Reviews - The Furminator - And A Cheaper, Better Alternative!

Tibby TibblesComment

Hi Everypawdy!

Shed season is fully upon us. Fur in your coffee, fur on all your pants. I thought this might be a great opportunity to review some deshedding tools that can help make shedding season just a little *bit* more bearable. 


Today I'll be giving you my honest review and opinion of the Furminator. The Furminator is a deshedding tool that is supposed to "

  • Reduces loose hair from shedding up to 90% on regularly groomed dogs

  • Stainless steel deShedding edge reaches deep beneath your dog's long topcoat to gently remove undercoat and loose hair

  • FURejector button cleans and removes loose hair from the tool with ease"

The Design 


The design of the FURminator is just okay. It is very effective at pulling out the undercoat from your dog's belly. However, I find that the components aren't the best quality and mine tends to come apart at the handle once I start using it on Tibby (see picture). The "FURejector" doesn't quite get the hair off and most times I just need up pulling the hair from the tool. 


When I use the Furminator, I firstly run a regular metal comb through Tibby's hair to make sure it is smooth. I use long strokes with the Furminator to brush her hair, making sure to run it through the same spots no more than 3 times.


Now, I know the Furminator is a slightly controversial product. Some people have said that it can damage the skin, cuts guard hairs, and hurts your dog. When I feel the blade, I can see how it can really hurt a dog's skin, especially when if it is coming in contact with the skin and not undercoat. The blade itself is really sharp. 

However, in terms of effectiveness, I can think of no other product that does as good of a job at pulling out the undercoat. It only takes 1 or 2 strokes to pull out most of the undercoat. The dog rake that I recommend also does a very good job, however, it's definitely not as good at pulling out the undercoat like the Furminator. In the picture is one stroke with both the Furminator and the Oster Dog Rake. Not sure if it's that clear in the photo but the Furminator definitely pulls out more undercoat hair as compared to the Oster Dog Rake.


  • Very effective

  • Takes less time


  • You have to be very careful to use it properly, using it improperly can unnecessary pain to your dog

  • The quality of the material is quite cheap

  • Is pricey compared to other undercoat removal tools out there

  • The Furejector button is not very effective

My Rating

Cost: - 3/5 -Pricey compared to alternatives

Effectiveness: 4/5- Does a good job but requires you to be very careful

Design: 2/5 Quality of the material is quite cheap

Overall: 3/5 

My Recommendation

I recently started using this other undercoat removal tool called the "Oster Dog Rake and Shedding Brush" and I've been really loving it! Its almost as effective at removing undercoat as the Furminator. In addition, the way the ends are rounded are not going to scratch or irritate your dog's skin (see photo).


I find that Tibby is more tolerant of this brush than the Furminator. The construction of the tool is solid steel and feels much more substantial than the Furminator. It's also a bit cheaper than the Furminator. If you are still using the Furminator, or something else and have a dog with a heavy double coat, I highly, highly recommend trying this one out guys!

(PLZ note the Tibby drool in this photo...she doesn't do anything without getting treats LOL)

As with all undercoat removal brushes, don't overbrush in one area (I recommend less than 3 strokes in each area per session) and slowly introduce your dog the brush so they don't become fearful or scared of the product. As always, reward and praise your dog!

You can purchase the Furminator or Oster Dog Rake by clicking below!


What other products are you curious about and want me to review?

Let me know in the comments below!

XOXO - Tibby's Mum

Finding A Responsible Corgi Breeder - Part 1

Tibby TibblesComment

You sweat, obsess and stalk corgis in all your waking hours. You aww over their little chubby bellies, long after their short little stumps, and creep the Instagrams of countless CelebriCorgs all times of the day. And now you have decided that you MUST. HAVE. ONE. OF. YOUR.OWN. So, now what? How do you get some of that sweet, sweet corgi fluff in your own life?